How do you set up a shrimp aquarium?

Hoe richt je een garnalen aquarium in?

There's nothing quite like building a mini-world for shrimp. These colorful little creatures roam around all day, cleaning your tank and keeping the aquarium clean. My friends seriously thought I was crazy when I stared at those tiny red and white stripes for minutes. Spoiler alert: I just got happy. πŸ˜„ In this guide, I'll take you step-by-step on the road to a stable, green shrimp aquarium.

Set up your shrimp tank in a stable and plant-rich environment. Neocaridina thrives at 21–24Β°C, pH 6.8–7.5, GH 4–6, and preferably a low KH. Ideally, use a nutrient-rich substrate (soil), a sponge filter, let the tank cycle slowly at first, feed 2–3 times per week, and avoid copper and large fluctuations.


What exactly is a shrimp aquarium?

A shrimp aquarium is usually compact (10–60 L) and revolves around tranquility and stability. Dwarf shrimp such as Neocaridina (Cherry/Blue Dream) or Caridina (Crystal/Bee) feed on biofilm, algae, and micro-debris. They enjoy abundant plants, mosses, and hiding places. Important to remember:

  • Stable above β€œperfect”: Small, stable fluctuations are okay; big jumps are not.
  • Water parameters: Neocaridina β†’ 21–24 Β°C, pH 6.8–7.5, GH 4–6, low KH. (Caridina requires softer/more acidic water with active soil.)
  • Biofilm = buffet: lots of leaves, wood and moss means plenty of grazing areas for adult shrimp and hiding places for shrimplets.
  • Medications & metals: copper is a no-go. Use "shrimp-safe" products and check labels.

How to set up a shrimp tank (step-by-step)?

  1. Choose your size: at least 20 L for stability. Nano is fine, but the more water, the more forgiving.
  2. Soil & Hardscape: Choose nutrient-rich soil (3–5 cm). Soil helps plants and moderates pH/KH. Add wood (e.g., mangrove or spiderwood ) and rocks for biofilm and hiding places, such as Dragon Stone , Slate , or Mini Landscape .
  3. Plants & moss: lots! Check out our aquarium plants . Think mosses (Java/Christmas), Anubias nana , Buce, and Cryptocoryne. Dense greenery = safe nursery for shrimplets.
  4. Filter & flow: a sponge filter or soft hang-on with a sponge pre-filter. Gentle flow, maximum oxygen.
  5. Heating (optional): 22–24 Β°C is ideal; in a warm room it can be done without.
  6. Water & remineralization: Use soft tap water or reverse osmosis + minerals for Neocaridina. Aim for a GH of 4–6, low KH. (For Caridina? Use active soil + reverse osmosis + specific minerals.)
  7. Cycling: Let the tank run for 3–4 weeks. Test the NH3 / NO2 (= 0), NO3 is low. Add a pinch of food or a catappa leaf for bacteria/biofilm. Tip: Need additional natural hiding places? Check out our botanicals .
  8. Acclimatization: drip method 45–90 min. Catch shrimp with a net; do not pour store-bought water into your tank.
  9. Feeding: Shrimp food 2–3 times a week, alternating with leaves (ketapang), zucchini pieces, or snowflake. Discard leftovers after 2–3 hours.
  10. Maintenance: Change the water 10–15% weekly, using water that matches the temperature/values. Gently squeeze the filter sponge in aquarium water (not under the tap).
  11. Light & algae management: Start with 6–8 hours of light; gradually increase the light. Too much light = algae fest, too little = plant doldrums.
  12. Shield inlets: use a fine sponge/guard on the inlet to prevent shrimplets from disappearing into the filter.
  13. Additional hiding places: leaf litter and botanicals , cholla wood, and moss bridges provide food and safe hiding places.
  14. Monitor calmly: check daily: behavior, molting, food consumption. Adapting is better than intervening.

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Occupation & Combining

  • Starting colony: 10–20 Neocaridina is a good base; in good conditions they will expand independently.
  • Species & color: Keep one family line per tank (mixed colors within Neocaridina often become "wild color" over time). Don't mix Neocaridina and Caridina if you want to breed specifically.
  • Tank mates: no predatory fish. Good: small snails, Otocinclus , pygmy Corydoras (baby shrimp remain prey if found). Keeping them only with other shrimp is most successful.

Feed & micro-food web

Your shrimp thrive on biofilm, algae, and microorganisms. Give nature a helping hand:

  • Biofilm boosters: cholla wood & botanicals , catappa leaves , pine cones.
  • Target food: shrimp sticks/pellets, snowflake (does not spoil quickly), mineral cubes (shell strength).
  • Vegetable snack: thin slice of zucchini/cucumber, 1–2 hours; throw out leftovers.

Common mistakes (and quick fixes)

  • Too fast, too much: first turn, then add shrimp. Patience = success.
  • Major water changes: it's better to do small , regular water changes with exactly the same parameters.
  • Copper and "universal" medications: Read labels; "shrimp-safe" or don't use.
  • Insufficient hiding space: add moss, wood , and leaves/botanicals . Shrimp want a jungle!
  • Overfeeding: 2–3 times a week is sufficient. Once it's all gone, only then should you supplement.

Checklist

  • β‰₯ 20 L, soil + many plants /moss
  • Sponge filter / soft flow, (optional) heating 22–24 Β°C
  • Neocaridina values: pH 6.8–7.5, GH 4–6, low KH
  • Baking tray (NH 3 /NO 2 = 0)
  • Drip acclimatization when deploying
  • Feed 2–3 times a week, discard leftovers
  • Weekly 10–15% water change, match parameters

Conclusion

Keeping shrimp is zen: build it up slowly, stay stable, and enjoy the micro-life. With plenty of greenery, a gentle flow, and small, consistent routines, you can build a bustling shrimp city in no time. Feel free to share photosβ€”we're all in! πŸ˜‰

Need help with soil, plants, or water parameters? Schedule a personalized consultation or πŸ“² app us . We're happy to get your shrimp paradise up and running.